2 HALFS OF EVERYTHING: DEITIES AND DEMONS

Badfish & Chips Cafe

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ZEBRA DOVES OF BALI MATE FOR LIFE. Two of them are building a nest under the roof of my neighbor’s house. One dove carries a bamboo twig, the other stands watch. The house I’m renting sits in a rice field in Penestanan, a village near Ubud. That is, it used to be a rice field. Ten years ago, it was a rice field. Today, the land slopes downhill in terraced, level plots, but instead of rice growing in paddies, houses now grace the land, like so many wallowing pot-bellied pigs. Decades ago when the first few homes were built, it was simply a marvelously pleasant and heavenly idea: a home with a view of the vast rice fields all the way to the ravine where the jungle thrives along the river.

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Today, it’s pretty much the Burbs, Bali-style: house after house in rows—oozing carbuncles of bamboo, teak, volcanic rock and…

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